Chris Malloy
What's your name?
Chris Malloy.
Where are you originally from?
Ojai, California.
Where do you live now?
Same place.
How and when did you start surfing?
I started surfing with my dad when I was five years old.
Who were you surfing with at first?
Just my dad and my brothers.
Who were some early influences on your surfing?
I'd have to say my very first influences were Pat Kern, Peter Cole and Jay Lopez, cuz I used to hear stories from my dad. Right after that, Occy and Kern were my biggest influences.
Who do you usually surf with now?
I usually surf by myself now.
Where do you like to surf these days?
Wherever I wake up that morning.
Do you enjoy surfing in contests?
Yeah, I love it. I surfed one four years ago, and it was a blast.
How could contests be improved?
I'm not qualified to answer that question.
What is good about being a pro surfer?
It gives you a lot of opportunities to do what you want.
What is bad about being a pro surfer?
People that don't know you making judgments about you.
Name your favorite surf movies.
It might have to be John Severson's film, Pacific Vibrations.
What kind of board do you ride?
I ride a lot of different ones, from a 12-foot paddle board to a little quad fish and everything in between. My favorite boards are 6' 3" Squash by Al Merrick.
How did you get on etnies?
Through a drinking contest.
What do you like about etnies?
They support what we do, and they make good sandals.
What is good about surfing in general?
It's a great excuse to travel all over the planet and experience different cultures.
What is bad about surfing in general?
It gives you leathery skin and tergums.
Have you ever been bit or stung in the water?
I've been stung by everything from Portuguese man-of-wars to…
Saxon got bit by a duck.
Do they bite? Is that what beaks do?
I guess, I don't know.
I had a big eel try to bite me once, but he missed, which was good. I've been bit by sea lions, and by fish plenty of times trying to get hooks out of their mouths.
Have you ever been the subject or perpetrator of localism?
Yeah, definitely--a little bit of both, but it's always good fun.
Where is a good place to eat?
Café Haleiwa in Honolulu. I've got to plug those guys--I eat there free.
Where on Earth are the best waves?
Give me a minute. Sorry, am I burning up your tape?
No, I don't care.
Probably Rubber Duckies.
Who are your favorite surfers of all time?
Probably Jay.
What have been the highlights of your surfing career?
Honestly, getting to paddle out in Eddie Aikau.
That's a big deal for anyone. What do you enjoy besides surfing?
I like to go camping.
What are your future goals in surfing, and in general?
Just to surf until I'm 85. In general, just to stay alive until I'm 85.
(Laughs) That's a good goal!
