etnies

Where are you originally from?
Ventura, California.

Where do you live now?
Ventura.

How and when did you start surfing?
I started surfing when I was a little kid. I just went to the beach when I was a little grommie, so I probably started really young. I don't know, probably five or six years old.

Who were you surfing with at first?
My dad and my brothers--the Malloy clan.

Who were some early influences on your surfing?
My dad, of course, and my older brother, Chris. We also had a couple of really good friends, the Early brothers (Jim and Dennis Early). They were surfing really good when we were young, and were a couple of years older than us, so we always looked up to their surfing.

Who do you usually surf with now?
Whoever, some queer from Kauai named Oma with a big nose. No, just whoever's around. I don't really have a personal preference.

Do you enjoy surfing in contests?
I used to. I don't think they're bad, but I don't do them anymore.

How could contests be improved?
It shouldn't matter how many waves you catch or if you catch good waves, you should just be judged on your surfing--who looks the best and surfs the best.

What is good about being a pro surfer?
Being able to surf every day.

What is bad about being a pro surfer?
Traveling too much, like when you have to travel so much that you don't even want to see an airplane, but you have to get on one anyway.

Name your favorite surf movies.
Big Wednesday.

What kind of board do you ride?
I ride Al Merrick boards, like 6' 3" thrusters.

How did you get on etnies?
I asked my good friend Brandon Lillard if he would sponsor me.

What do you like about etnies?
Everything. They're such a solid company. They make insane shoes and sandals, and they take me to Tavarua every year (laughs).

What is good about surfing in general?
The good thing about surfing in general is that it's different every day. The ocean has something different for you--that's why it's never boring.

What is bad about surfing in general?
Helmet rash, no (laughs). I don't know. There's not whole lot bad about it, except for when you have to surf in a crowd, or something like that.

Have you ever been bit or stung in the water?
I've been stung by jellyfish--that's about it. One time in Florida, I got stung really bad.

Have you ever been the subject or perpetrator of localism?
No comment (laughs).

Where is a good place to eat?
Pat O'Connell's restaurant in Laguna Beach, California, but I don't know what it's called.

Pat O'Connell has a restaurant? I'm going to hit him up. Where on Earth are the best waves?
I don't know. Indonesia.

That's what every single person says. Who are your favorite surfers of all time?
George Greenough.

What have been the highlights of your surfing career?
I don't think I really have one. It's just been one big frickin' party.

What do you enjoy besides surfing?
Besides surfing, I enjoy...

Long walks on the beach.
I don't know, I like the outdoors. I like shooting guns with Brandon Lillard or frickin' rock climbing with Ross Garrett or whoever. I like being outdoors.

What are your future goals in surfing, and in general?
To keep having fun at it and do it as long as I can.